一直以為威爾史密斯是一個喜劇演員, 直到看到這部片才開始注意到他除了喜劇之外的部份

其實看這部電時, 我覺得挺感動的, 尤其是爸爸騙小孩躲恐龍躲在廁所過夜, 也許是心酸加上害怕被發現踢出去沒地方過夜, 坐在地上掉眼淚...

戲裏的爸爸面對困境卻仍能以幽默的態度來面對

想想自己其實很幸運, 即使曾經落到一無所有, 卻不必擔心沒地方住

想想自己雖然一直很努力, 其實從未真正放下自己的自尊與驕傲, 單純的全力以赴; 總是認為別人應該要能夠看得到自己是什麼樣的人, 不屑刻意爭取別人的認同

套句戲裡的對話, at this stage of my life, it is called " confusion "

The question and the noise - Is it worthy?  Can I make it?

 

滑雪日誌  < ---日誌太長, 請看

 

6年前, 有張免費機票可以去東京, 我想去滑雪, 但實在不知道那裏可以去滑雪, 網路上找到Redteeth 到長野志賀高園,/住丸池的記錄, e-mail 問他價錢, 結果對一向住YH 的我來說實在很貴, 我到了東京之後, youth Hotel 的人叫我去白樺湖, 比較近, 也有youth hotel, 所以後來我去了白樺湖,, 白樺湖的旅程是特別的, 對當時十分沮喪的我, hotel 的人即使不會講英文, 卻讓我覺的很溫暖, 還會幫我找便車去比較遠的雪場, 尤其是我自己一個人聽到ganbadai 時特別感動, 
 
6年之後, 我又有機會去日本, 我仍然記Redtteth 和丸池, 在網路上找了半天找到去丸池的方法和連絡方式, 他還是一樣的貴, 但是我想算了吧, 又不會因此破產, 就去了, 就像Redteeth說的, 它又方便又溫暖, 另人難忘

 

丸池的人問我怎會來這, 他们只有日文網站, 於是我說了故事… 

聽說幾個朋友塵埃落定, 有了歸宿 (男男女女囉), 心裡想, 遊戲人生也有累了倦了的時候, 遇到了對的人, 就是了

他们真是遊戲人生嗎?  不對不對, 我想他们一直是依照自己的生活方式, 信仰和感受, 認真的過生活

遊戲人生 - 什麼事都可以是一場遊戲, 工作, 生活, 戀愛, 吃喝玩樂, 結婚, 生小孩,  家庭, 交朋友

日子不停的過, 我们玩的遊戲, 想要的遊戲一直隨著我们的心改變, 此路不通也要換條路走

曾經後悔過作錯選擇, 作錯事, 但是, 我们所作的選擇, 作的事, 永遠遵循的是"當時" 心的方向

只要提醒自己, 埋首專心時, 要抬起頭來, 用心看看我们有沒有疏乎了/忘了/掉了心的一部份

遊戲永不停止, 不論有多難, 永遠有機會再繼續玩

 

Do you still remember you said this is your one of your favorite song?

You asked if I like the lyrics. Yes, I do.

Replay the song hundred times but you never know

Thought it is an old song

Bought the album yesterday and found the singer is young

Wonder how come never asked about anything but listening…

If you can hear me, tell me how are you

Hot and sunshine!  

 

Take the bus to Hanauma Bay. Pretty seaside w/reef! (but no coral) Rent gogle/snorkel/fins. I hated snorkel. 1^st 10 minutes were kind of bad and panic. So, just lay there and get tanned. 2^nd time it is great. With this kind of shallow water, it is great to see a lot of fishes of different species. They look a little bit big but underwater everything is bigger so I don’t know their actual size. Today the sun is really hot. But the water is so cold that I tremble after 30 minutes and have to get up from the water.

 

The last bus returned to the city at 5:45. There was a couple from States with 2 kids. The kids are cute. They travel by bus and are going to the sea paradise after here. See, there are different kind of methods to travel. By car, it will take either 1 day or 1 week to see and have fun at the shore. The Korean girls tour around for a month at different seashores…

 

In the evening, went Moana Surfrider for the singing. Some guy from US but worked here on contract  joined and talked with me so I didn’t really pay too much attention on the songs. The bar tender mistook we’re together so bill everything together..

 

Well, this is the end of my Hawaii story and journal. Got to pack and go…

 

 

 

 

 

 

It is a beautiful day. Sunshine. (but I didn’t really go out..)

 

And this morning, I woke up at 8 and went directly to the bike shop. He said he did go looking but he stopped by a point which is only 300 meter far and in front of the tunnel, according to him, it was after 6 so he cannot drive in further across the tunnel. I'm happy that yesterday  I didn't keep waiting until 8, still nobody there and crying tears into basin. Last night I was wondering if I had problem to trust people and didn't wait till the last moment. But now, it seems I was right to leave. Look how bad I felt about myself and miserable, wondering what's wrong with me last night!  Frankly speaking, I feel much much better after knowing the truth.. 

 

If I trust myself better, I would not wait for one minute and get a ride directly back from the ticket office. If I trust myself better, I would not leave cable key of the bike hang on without lock and then lost it on the way. If I'm doing it by myself, I shall be very cautious and undestand whatever the bike's problem in advance. We shall always trust others' good intention  but at which point, shall we listen to ourselves instead of others?  For me, always very confusing.

 

The shop people, Frank?, said I can get a refund OR keep riding today as long as I want. And he said DON'T  WORRY ABOUT THE BIKE, they'll pick it up. But definitely I'll have to pay $30 for the cable key or buy them back a new one. Larry came to the shop too. He said he felt he is partially responsible for this and would pay $ 10 to cover part of my loss. I said no, it is my fault anyway.Then, he said all right, then I would pay you $5 for a pack of cigarette and then I take it. Frank doesn't seem worried the bike could be throw out of the ticket office and I had to reminded him to ask their people to pick up quick.  

 

I was very tired, back to hostel for breakfast first. One hr later, I went back to the bike shop for refund and he said they went but didn't find the bike at the ticket office. ...

 

I'm worried and he is worried too. Finally I go with another driver.  We get there and the bike is right behind the ticket office.  

 

On the way back, I beg the driver drop me by the store to buy cable lock on the way... The driver was actually making fun of me, 1st said he said he had to rush back to his job, he is not driver but a mechanism, fixing a car half way and got called here and no time to drive me.... and after bought the lock, I found I was back in the original bike shop near the hotel. He is a funny guy.

 

The shop guy offered a free bike ride ticket for next trip one hr ago. After refund, I asked and he asked me "are you back to Hawaii again?" and said " I guess we're even now".  It's true I don't really need the ticket but we're not even.. It is a lot of time waiting, feeling frustrated and sleepless!  

 

Sleep whole day but couldn't really fell into sleep. At 5, woke up and writing diary. Suddenly, I found today is 29, but not 28. So, I shall fly the day after tomorrow on Sunday instead of Monday?

 

Have to cancel my scubadive tomorrow then.  Laughing at myself, the hotel counter, an Argentinian college boy, said " you're not late, you're on Hawaiian time " and said this is exactly the Hawaii spirit. Suddenly I feel great and every mess become interesting…

 

Haven’t been to the local dancing performance yet. Didn’t find the free local dance show, But I did find a good show at the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, just at the beach side. Drinking Lava and watch the Hawaiian princess and warrior dance from the Pacific island countries. People are cheering up for the dancer. It is really pleasant. Unfortuately my camera didn’t work very well to catch the image at night. Spirit up. Walk back to the hostel, I find along the way, there are a lot of nice shops and International Market Place to shop. It seems not necessary to bring much cloth since there are nice tropical dress to buy! HaHa. I don’t like shopping too much but I do enjoy shopping to see the nice stuff. ..

 

Tomorrow will be my last full day in Hawaii. Until now, I feel wa there is not enough time to dive, watch whale, fishing maybe, sail, not enough suntan and swim…What to do tomorrow?

 

 

Good day, Sunshine

 

3 old ladies asked about the direction to the hotel clinic.  While I walked upstairs, the cute guy from the counter was going to ask upstairs too. He is nice too. Not so confident with my sense of direction, I walked with them to the hotel.  The ladies said many thanks and hugged me...

 

Larry said he is going to Diamond Head, where I was planning to go by bus. So, I just rush to rent a bike to go with him. It was a hard ride uphill (took around half an hr from Waikiki)-- it is not that steep, how come it goes so slow and so hard?

 

Finally got to the Diamond Head crator ticket office. Found the cable key of bike is missing somewhere.  Walking trail/stairs up around 1hr10m.  On top of Going top of Diamond, the sea/hills/building and the tunnel we rode up are all there, the view is nice. You can even see people snorkel at sea. Unfortunately, no whale is spotted. The dive shop girl said she saw whale the other day here. To catch up with Larry’s time to return his bike, we go down in a hurry in 20 minutes to the ticket office. Then, I found my bike is flat-tired!  I told Larry I’ll find someway to take a ride back and he can hurry to go down. But Larry called and said the truck will come up in 20 minutes. Waited and waited till 6pm, park closing hr. The truck didn’t come and I had to put bike in the office and take a ride back. The ride asked why your friend didn't make sure the truck is coming... well. what can I say? We only met this afternoon. I do not want to ask a person I know not long to give up their leisure for my trouble... What if it is a close friend of mine? I could yell and ask why there is no truck coming.....  Maybe I was not that desperate and panic to ask for help! 

 

After return, Larry said he did say the truck is coming but not in 20 minutes. He said "he has to be back in 20 minutes" ... 

 

So frustrated and I said I will not come to Hawaii again.

 

Stood up for a dinner appointment, even I was waiting, doing laundry and talking at the same time. 

 

Ater all these, I couldn't sleep whole night at all. Feeling so bad..

Leaving for North shoare late evening and expect to arrive around sunset time. (well, i'm not a surfer, so.)

 

Unfortunately, wrong estimation and I arrive at 7:30 pm – the sun already set and there is no café, no restaurant, totally dark and only toilet near the seashore!

 

But the wave, the sound, and 10 minues gleaming stars full of sky…..

 

A place which is so modern and lost all the native feature. Now it seems Hawaii is just a place with good atmosphere and weather. You travel all over the world and most big cities and many places looks so similar. But maybe nobody want to stay the way it was?   The bus driver said he miss the Hawaii 40 years with no highway, not so many people but he also said the whole wold is changing in this way.

 

The ride--- The conversation:

M: Are you hot?

F:   What do you mean by “ HOT”?

M:  Do you smoke?

F: Malboro

M: I mean pod, Marowana/Harsh…

F: Few times. When others smoke and offered

M: Do you get ..like Cocaine,…

F: No. They’re not good stuff, why trying it. You got addiction. Do you?

M: Yes. Where is your husband?

F: I’m not married

M: Would you like to be with me?

F: No. I am not interested in being with somebody taking Cocain…

M: I won’t do that if I’m with you

F:  You have to be a better person. I won’t help you with that.

M: Where do you stay?

F: Waikiki Youth Hostel

M: You can take me home and take advantage of me.

F:  I don’t know how to do that. Normally others take me home and take advantage of me

M: If you take advantage of me, I won’t scream or yell..

F: That would be no fun.  

M: I thought you’re going to take me home and take advantage of me. If I knew you’re not, I will leave you there on the beach and won’t give you a ride.

F:  Please never mind. You know I’m just making fun of you.

 

Am I mean to a person who do not have really bad intention, seeing sb waiting for the bus and giving a ride voluntarily? Even the conversation itself is really weird but he did no harm.

 

 

 

Going Big Island for volcano!

Good day, hot, sunshine

Got up 4:00 in the morning, spent $300 to join a trip to go to another island to see volcano....

 

   However, we didn't see any "real" eruption or lava, only smoke. Very disappointed..   $300 for an nice outing and picnic is really too expensive for me. The return flight schedule was changed and we waited 3 hrs to fly back to the main island, arrived at hotel at 10 pm and I missed my dinner appointment. Strange thing is nobody care except me???   .. 

 

   Well, the Japanese style garden we pass through is pretty, the orchid garden is really nice. We also visited the Hawaii Almond? Nut factory. We did see the volcano crator with gas.. (but we have a lot of volcano gas back home too....- and with hot springs) The Aussie couple said their friend, in group,  is going to Negao/Japan for ski on Feb. 2, well, I'm going exactly on the same day!

 

   The air is sometimes poluted by the volcano gas, depending on the wind.

 

 

Cloudy, Raining from 4pm

 

Pearl harbour is still a military base and not open. Only limited area with museum, the Missouri memorial battleship, submarine and the park are open.

 

Maybe walk around and see the battleship? However, many people bought Bowfin ticket and the kids (others' of course) want to the submarine. So, I join the sumarine team. At 1st sight, the submarine is so small. well, it is not a huge one. Inside the submarine is pretty interesting. Crowded with machines, meters, generator, beds/rest. tables/kitchens are so jammed. The audio says eating is very important for the crew since there is no entertainment at all so the menu is all reviewed and approved byt the captains. They have some 4-5 meals each day, also with ice cream!

 

The 1st few years I flew, being youg and fresh, the long hrs and the narrow seat never bothers me and  I was always very happy to eat, meal after meal. Such a good apertite.

 

An old Aussie couple said they sail from Melbourne for 6 months till now, travelled thought NZ. They live on boat and are going to Seattle, central America, ... and then back to Australia. Still 2 years to go!  They said this is their retirement gift. I envy that and wish someday I will be able to do the same thing..... - even it seem dangerous a little bit.  

 

On the bus back, bus driver told me the ticket she gave me is valid for 2 hrs. So, it is a transport ticket. We didn’t spend one minute looking at the bus ticket and paid everytime until now…Bus ticket at $2. 4 days ticket available at $ 20

 

Since I have bus ticket, drop myself off at China Town for food. It is like derserted, no shops open and nobody.. Wa! Today is Chinese New Year so everybody is home resting. Fortunately a Kuangtong restaurant is open. Big Bowl of rice soup 皮蛋瘦肉粥. This is a nice small place to eat... Called mom to say happy new year!

 

 

Warm and sunshine

 

Went shopping with Y at Walmart and the store, Ross?, across the street for cloth. Why am I shopping?  I’m not interested in and cannot buy anything since my luggage is full already (few days later I found it is not a big problem anyway, you can always buy an extra bag to load them). Am I too nice? What the hell. It is a vacation and I didn’t have specific things to do. Whatever comes along.

 

Checked out of the hostel - I was kicked out of my bed because I didn't pay in advance and - before checkout time. I was not so happy with this and directly checked out to next door hostel and had to move again next morning. What a trouble I bring to myself just because I am not happy to be in another room for one night!

 

Funny thing:

Y need to leave midnight at 3:30, catching shuttle to the airport. At 3:30, accoding to “some” alarm o’clock in my room, I couldn’t sleep, go downstairs for smoking. Happening to find Y downstairs, an airport shuttle at front, I said it seems to be 3:30 and you need to go now. The hotel o’clock show 1:00 and it was a little bit confusing but Y said the hotel clock must be wrong. We moved all her luggage down. And then we found it is 1:00 but not 3:30!!! ….We had to move everything upstairs again since front desk said we couldn’t keep it there.... .. Exactly where is at 3:30?

 

Suntan/Shopping

Warm, sunshine

 

Breakfast at 930 but go out at 3pm for swim and suntan. Monday is Chinese New Year. So, there is a celebration tonight at Chinatown. I didn’t really want to go shopping. So, Y  went Chinatown together with me so we can go shopping at Walmart for exchange.

 

The celebration in Chinatown is not too much but with Dancing Dragon and Tiger, drumming. Crowded with a lot of stands, food mostly, a lot of people are standing eating. We tried to find the very cheap place to eat as Y mentioned but took half an hr to find it in an alley, with a lot of food from other countries.  

 

Y bought so many gifts at Walmart. Suddenly I realized Y couldn’t shop alone. I am one of the 2 carrier now.

 

After bottle of Lemonade and beer at the balcony,  she want to go dancing. So, we went to the Surfer’s bar "LULU" but there is no dancing. The screen usually plays sports are now playing the Japanese comic, In The Heat Of The Sun (神隱少女), which I like a lot! After closing at 2, we went for Red Lion for dancing and left at closing at 4. Went McDonald for food and now it is breakfast meal time...

-- 神隱少女的英文名子怎麼這麼怪?

 

At Red Lion, I found some pretty ladies from my country, dancing around some guy. I feel sorry for them. They deserve better than that.   

 週三的瑜珈老師又像以往一樣, 一邊做一邊講話聊天, 這次更離譜, 聊了半個小時, 一直講話都沒有喊口令, 還好我看的到老師的動作, 跟著作就是了, 不曉得其他人是否和我一樣瞠目結舌

一開始上課時覺的很不可思議, 也覺的很誇張, 但是慢慢開使覺的真是有趣, 課可以這樣上, 老師很好玩, 其實老師很厲害的ㄛ, 幾個學生跟她上了10幾年

腳受傷以後休息了半年, 回來上課, 這是第二次, 恢復的還算蠻快的, 每次都會覺的身體狀況有些不同

為了找聚餐地點, 發現忠孝東路友的巷子有那摸點冷清, 原來有條巷子一堆的燒烤店, 似乎不見了,反而有幾家有點平民風格的日式燒烤看起來有點特別

 

  12月7號, 週五

 

早上起來一點雨跡也沒有, 真是想太多｡ 昨晚到時已天黑, 看不見四週環境, 現在一看, 營地四週滿是黃葉樹, 還有小溪, 真是漂亮｡ 簡單吃吐司和咖啡當早餐, 吃完就開始下雨, 氣象報告還算挺準的｡

 

在雨中拆了帳篷, 收好行李, 9 點出發, 這麼重的行李, 我自己背今天可能可能沒有辦法上到谷頂, Mike 自己的行李也重, 但他還是幫我提帳篷｡(朋友笑稱Mike被當成驢子, 其實就像他自己說的, 他是我的守護天使)

 

一早雨不停的下, 沿著科羅拉多河岸走了近2小時, 河水又大又黃, 泥沙似乎很多, 走了近2小時才到之字型上坡開始爬坡, 下了一早的雨, 出現了很多小溪和河, 甚至還有瀑步, 步道上也有潺潺水流, 幸好Mike 陪我一起走, 要不真的過不了這些臨時出現的溪流｡

 

走了一段之字行, 看到上坡起點有兩個人走的比我们更慢還挺開心的｡

 

1點:到Indian Garden 營地¸ 這裡有巡警辦公室還養了一些驢子, 挺漂亮的營地｡ 正好有一家人老老少少今晚要在這露營｡ 吃了鮪魚罐頭和水果(感謝Suan 姐姐的愛心), 上個廁所, 照個像, 2點鐘出發再繼續走｡

 

 一路看著昨晚的 Bright Angel 營地越來越小, 視野越來越遼闊, Mike若是自己一個人走, 應該很快就到了, 我走這麼慢, 恐怕會拖到天黑｡ 4:30 問M 他要不要先走, 這樣可以提早回家, 他說他不會讓我一個人走到晚上, 他大概上去會花半小時, 放了行李之後就下來接我, 也許可以幫我背背包或相機, 我說我還好, 走的慢但不算太累｡ 於是他先上去, 我自己慢慢走｡ 因為天氣冷, 又下雨, 一點也感覺不出這裡是沙漠, 唯一有感覺的是水沒喝多少, 但排尿很多, 若不注意補充水份, 真的可能會脫水

 

從黃昏走到天黑, 一路休息照相, 也許是昨天睡的好, 上坡不像下坡這麼傷膝蓋,今天走起來比昨天順多了｡

 

7點遇到Mike, 他覺得很抱歉這麼晚才下來, 上去的時間不只半小時, 雨水濕透背包, 變的很重, 他放下行李之後累的不得了｡ 我们再走了20分鐘, 在7點20左右上到谷頂的Bright Angel lodge 旅舍的停車場, 請Mike 載我到Maswik lodge 提行李, 再到Mather營地 (US$ 15/night)｡ Mike 因為趕著要回家¸連闖幾個紅燈, 中途還被警察攔下來｡  這個谷頂惟一的營地空空如也, 只有幾台大休旅車, 好像沒人搭帳篷｡ 好不容易找到一個附近有人, 又靠近廁所和出口的位置, 架起帳蓬趕緊讓Mike 回家｡

 

坐進帳篷裡, 實在好冷, 呼出氣都冒煙¸ 保溫瓶的熱水白天已經喝完, 食物也吃光了, 只剩核果抓著吃｡ 開著頭燈想出去上廁所, 把外面的登山杖和堆在桌上的垃圾收一收, 卻冷的一動也不想動｡ 掙扎坐著打盹了1小時¸終於放棄, 把登山鞋收進來直接倒下去睡｡

 

12月8號, 週五

 

早上醒來, 果然外面的垃圾已被動物打開散的到處都是, 帳篷上一層雪結霜, 趕快清一清帳篷, 趁著出太陽曬乾｡

 

這個營地是有淋浴設備的, 但時間不夠了｡ 出門搭巴士到商店還了登山杖 (每天每支US$ 2/day/pc, 押金很貴大約＄60, 千萬不要弄丟), 到遊客中心晃一晃, 問了下山巴士的時間才知道有另一家Flagstaff Express公司只要＄19 一趟, 訂了車, 約在離營地近的 Yavapai lodge 接人｡

 

沿著峽谷邊緣的步道走一走, 不到半小時, 又下起雪來｡ 這樣的天氣, 還有人在跑步, 也有人帶狗出來散步｡ 沿路有數個觀景點, 峽谷雲霧繚繞, 雲和太陽時開時合, 視線不好, 但也別有一番風味｡ 原想走到　Bright Angel lodge 烤烤火, 喝杯咖啡, 走到一半發現時間不夠只好直接搭巴士回營地｡為了曬帳篷, 早上連帳篷門都沒拉, 下了幾小時的雪果然清了半天的帳篷又毀了, 堆滿了雪, 冲冲忙忙收拾, 算算走到巴士站再到lodge 可能會太趕, 就拜託附近營地的先生載我過去, 提早到了卻發現Yavapai lodge 根本到12月24號都不會開, 只好請他送我到　Maswik lodge 去等｡ 這位先生和他女友是從阿拉斯加來的, 他們打算下去露營走1個禮拜, 下雨暴風雨也沒關係, 照走…

 

Maskwik lodge 服務中心的女士非常親切, 她幫我打到巴士公司通知地點變更但辦公室的人都已下班回家｡ 這個旅舍是一般巴士接送的地點, 司機先生找不到人, 發現lodge 關了應該會到這裡找人才對｡ 買了一杯咖啡轉身卻撞上服務生燙傷手｡ 5:30 約定的時間到了, 另一家巴士公司的司機到了, 若我不搭這班車而約定的車沒到, 要下去得花一大筆錢搭計程車… 所幸10分鐘後約好的司機來了, 我是唯一乘客, 還好他及時趕到, 要不這趟路來回2小時他就白跑了

 

司機先生從洛杉磯來, 並不喜歡大城市, 搬到這裡開車…

 

這家巴士公司 (Flagstaff Express; +800 563 1980), 可以定點接送, Flagstaff 的青年旅社離火車站很近, 因此送到旅社不加錢

 

住宿Grand Canyon Int’l Hostel (19 S. San Francisco, Flagstaff; www.grandcanyonhostel.com; 1-888-442-2696 or (928)7799421, $17 / night) 這是我在美國住的青年旅社裡最喜歡的一家, 　                                                                                                    

 

 

 

辛苦的大峽谷健行記

 

12月6號, 週四

2: 10 到South Kaibab步道起點, 一路往下, 沿路都是綠色的驢屎, 路上人跡稀少, 年紀大了膝蓋不好, 走起下坡真是又慢又吃力, 開始覺得背這麼多行李下去露營實在愚蠢｡ 兩個本要下到谷底的德國人因為天氣不好決定走走就回頭,  實在很希望他们能改變主意一道走, 沿路只有自己往這個方向走感覺不大好, 他们聽我罵自己背重裝下去很蠢, 覺得怎麼有人這樣說自己的呢???

 

3:45 遇到一位趕著上谷頂的先生¸他擔心我摸黑到不了危險¸給我緊急連絡電話, 還建議我回頭｡ 可是這一大段要走回頭不會更輕鬆, 正好遠遠的有2個人走來, 於是我们停下等問他們意見還要走多久｡ 這兩位先生從谷底的Phantom Ranch 輕裝上坡走到這1.5小時, 我是重裝下坡, 即使走的慢, 應該2-3個小時, 最晚6-7 點可以到吧｡ 我決定繼續走, 一路趕著走之字形下坡, , 天快黑前看到第一眼河水, 高度還有一段｡ 6點左右天已全黑, 柯羅拉多的水聲清悉可聞, 而我走著走著發現自己走不動了, 把腳抬起來都很困難, 舉步維艱｡ 我要紮營嗎? 這一路山腰路雖然路大, 可是根本不適合紮營, 旁邊又是懸崖, 會不會半夜有山獅呢? 風又大¸ 萬一半夜下雨, 身邊流水不亂? 應該快到了, 會不會明早起來天亮就看到營地氣死? 整整一個小時¸我大概走一步3分鐘, 10 分鐘停下來一次抽煙¸ 喝熱開水, 吃東西｡ 雖然累的半死, 走不動, 意外的卻不覺得緊張害怕｡ 終於看到對岸好像有燈光, 精神大振｡

 

7:00 左右到第一座吊橋, 又走了半小時才到營地, 只是到了營地¸沒有半個人影, 這我才開始緊張¸走了快2小時夜路¸實在不願意在沒人的地方紮營, 走回頭去找燈光, 發現是巡警住所, 女主人應門, 問她營地沒人能不能去Phantom Ranch 那裏紮營, 她說不行, 露營一定要在營地¸她保證營地確實有人, 我只好回頭再走一次, 這一次我終於看到一位先生, 趕緊問他能不能紮營在他附近, 他只好帶我過去｡ 他說這是我營地, 22號; 妳可以紮營在 24, 25｡ 緊張的我問他可不可以帳蓬就搭在22號, 就在他旁邊空間剛好夠¸他非常勉強的答應｡ 架起了帳棚, 跟他借爐子升火煮泡麵, 這位Mike先生雖一開始很勉強¸ 知道我怕一個人, 很好的告訴我廁所在那, 他晚餐在Phantom Ranch 吃但錢還欠著要去還, 帶我一起去, 還請我喝可可｡ 這個餐廳小小的但感覺挺溫暖, 菜據說也好吃; 不過這裡吃飯是要預訂¸不能臨時跑來吃¸因為所有食物都是從谷頂每天訂好運下來的｡ 問了一下若是行李託運給驢子載上去要 60美金, 7點前就要送到這裡, 沒有人搭驢子上去的 (因為如果可以, 每個人都想這麼坐吧, 又有趣; 不過有一種行程是坐驢子下谷底的, 很久之前就要預訂)｡ 實在很貴, 而且又早, Mike已在峽谷的步道走了4天, 天氣都很好, 明天就要回家,

 

我们回到營地時, 我帳篷裡的相機袋居然有一堆花生米灑出來, Mike叫我先不要動, 也許有小動物在裡面, 看了一下是一隻鼬鼠, 為了防止他放臭氣, 也不要嚇到它, Mike小心翼翼的東敲敲西敲敲好不容易把它趕出來｡ 一看連豆漿粉都被撕開, 相機袋和帳蓬裡灑了一地, 雖然食物之前都已收到鐵箱裡, 小動物嗅覺靈敏, 還是聞到帳棚裡還有零食, 真是大意不得, 可憐的小傢伙不知翻了半天, 看起來好像沒吃到幾顆核果… 清了半天, 又把零食收進鐵箱, 上個廁所回來, M說也許鼬鼠會回來, 打開帳棚一看, 它可能記得這裡有食物又回來了, 這次M拍了照, 他說其實鼬鼠也很害怕, 躲在裡面, 它好像還蠻喜歡我的睡袋的, 總之我们搞了一陣子才把它請出來, M說晚上帳棚門要關好, 若是鼬鼠回來叫他的名字, 他再幫我趕｡ 鼬鼠果真半夜又來了1,2 次, 幸好鼬鼠不會開拉鍊, 我確定它進不來, 決定不理它, 睡我的｡

 

谷底夜裡比較溫暖, 睡的很好, 但我似乎聽見風雨聲, 擔心我的背包和衣服在外面淋雨, 卻始終沒有爬出睡袋看｡

 

半夜12:45到 Flagstaff, 又故計重施, 在車站睡, 這次灰狗車站在4點就關了, 心想自己既是背包客, 雖然行李這麼重有27 公斤, 總該自己試著走過去吧, 又可以省計程車費｡ 可憐短短的路還一路問, 走了1小時, 找到真是鬆了一口氣, 又在長凳上睡｡ 早上7:30被鬧鐘驚醒｡

 

8:00  “Open Road” 小巴士 到大峽谷南緣  (US$ 27+  $6峽谷國家公圓門票, 此巴士亦會經過Williams- 可搭到大峽谷的蒸氣火車)

 

10:00-10:30 到南緣的Maswik Lodge｡

越過火車軌即是backcountry office, 可申請露營許可並詢問路線及天氣狀況｡ 國家公圓巡警說今晚暴風雪就會來, 他建議我今天下午走走就算了¸不要下到谷底, 要不明天天氣變壞, 谷底下雨, 谷頂下雪¸ 若是明晚上來, 快到谷頂時雪變成冰¸走起來很危險; 如果回程半路的Indian Garden印地安花園紮營多待一晚, 後天天氣更糟｡ 本來因為昨晚睡車站今天預計要休息一天的, 決定今天直接走 South Kaibab步道下谷底¸ 明天一天就要由 Bright Angel 步道上來, 其實這樣的路線腳程很快的人也聽過有人一早出發當天輕裝來回的 (國家公圓管理處不建議這樣走, 除高度適應的問題外, 也有力竭, 脫水和失溫的危險) , 不過我腳程慢¸ 太累也行不通｡ 巡警人很好本要借我一支登山杖, 但這支木杖很重只好作罷¸ 他建議我一定要用登山杖｡

 

Maswik lodge 服務很好, 即使我沒住這, 還是願意讓我把一堆暫時不用的東西留在這, 他們說谷底 Phantom Ranch 的宿舍房一晚$33, 也許還有空位, 可以幫我問問, 想想我的許可都已申請, 又要多付錢, 也不曉得是為什麼, 還是決定露營去｡ 之前在火車站一起坐巴士上大峽谷的一家人似乎是孟諾教派(Amish, 就是電影中看到仍騎馬車, 過簡樸農村生活的族人), 穿著黑衣黑裙戴帽, 此時在旅舍大廳遇到其中年輕的太太抱著小嬰兒, 她說走在峽谷邊緣挺可怕, 她先回來休息｡

 

到店裡租了登山杖, 買了水, 坐公園免費巴士趕到South Kaibab 步道起點, 巴士司機和除我之外唯一乘客都認為我背這麼多東西, 腳程又不快, 今天絕對到不了 ｡ 他們勸我要是天黑就要趕快找平地紮營, 最好是在廁所附近有水可用..

 

l  在谷底及步道的營地過夜紮營要先申請Backcountry Permit露營許可, 每團 $ 10, 每晚 $5, 後來也遇見一些在步道上走了 5-7 天的人, 很勇｡ 但若住谷底的 Phantom Ranch, 不須申請許可｡

 

l  步道簡介

峽谷南緣邊緣的步道有二:

1)      沿Village Rim –來回15 分鐘到1.5 小時;  路況良好

2)      沿Hermit Road -來回15 分鐘到整天, Maricopa Point 以西為無路標的泥土路

Trans-Canyon Corridor Trails (陡)

1) South Kaibab步道 --- 單程11.7km, 4-6小時 (起點2213m->谷底河岸Bright Angel營地 756m), 步道中途無水源

2)Bright Angel步道 --- 單程14.9km, 7-9小時(谷底河岸BA營地 756m->谷頂起點 2093m)

3) North Kaibab步道--- 單程22.5km (起點, 北緣2512m->谷底河岸BA營地 730m), 北緣只在5/15-10/15開放

Hermit Trail (陡, 無維護步道)

Grandview Trail (非常陡, 無維護步道)

12月2日, 週日

早上起來, 已經出大太陽, 睡到11:00 起床, 居然有燒餅米漿當早餐｡

 

姐姐一家住土桑郊區, 才剛買2年的房子, 前陣子還修過廚房, 姐姐一邊說美國人工貴, 光貼個地面磁磚就花了不少錢, 花圓裏種了各式各樣的仙人掌, 可與仙人掌公圓媲美｡ 姐夫最喜歡的休閒就是整地, 整理花圓｡

 

Palo Verde 是 Arizona 的州樹, 整顆樹連樹幹都是綠的, 花是黃色, 開花時節, 滿山滿谷的花粉, 有些人還會因此過敏｡ 像蘆薈一樣的 Agavo (似乎是亞麻樹) 葉子纖維可以織布｡

 

下午到 Saquaro National Park (仙人掌國家公圓)一遊, 可能很多人跟我一樣, 完全不曉得土桑有這麼一個國家公圓, 這裡的國家公圓都會有短片介紹當地生態動植物等十分有意思｡  Saquaro 是美國境內最高大的仙人掌, 呈巨柱狀, 一棵Saquaro 年產數萬顆種子, 每個紅色的果實含有2000 棵種子, Saquaro結果的季節是 Tohono O’odham 新年的開始, 他们會到沙漠裡露營, 果實則製成果醬/糖果/果凍和酒｡ Saquaro只有在美國西南部的 Sonoran 沙漠才有, 長的非常慢, 第一年只長1/4英吋 0.75公分; 通常要15年才長成30公分高, 30年才開始開花結果, 50年213公分高, 75年才開始長手臂, 100年762公分, 最高可以長到15公尺｡ 所以我们在路上看到長手臂的 Saquaro 都至少有百歲高齡, 這種巨大的仙人掌是木心, 但組織含水量達85%, 一棵大 Saquaro 可能有8噸的水, 很難想像吧｡ 啄木鳥喜歡在 Saquaro 打洞築巢, 啄木鳥每年都建新巢, 舊巣就成了鷦鷯, 蛇, 老鼠的家了｡ Sonoran 雖是一個年降雨量不到300公厘, 夏季溫度高達38度的沙漠, 但動植物種類豐富, 一路上不見沙漠黃沙¸ 但見綠意無不斷可證｡

 

開車回家已是黃昏, 仙人掌映照著火紅的太陽, 挺美¸可惜我的相機照不出如此美景｡

 

接下來的兩天每天中午才起床, 姐姐會帶我四處走走｡ Desert Museum 沙漠博物館有各種大小仙人掌, 動植物, 鳥類及當地礦物¸ 還可見到山獅及土狼｡ 特別有趣的是有一種Black-tailed Prairie Dog, 這是一種在亞利桑那快絕跡的松鼠(似乎是土撥鼠), 只見它站著兩手成祈禱姿勢, 一動也不動, 看了很久, 它終於跑了一跑, 又回到原來的姿勢, 十分可愛｡ Sabino Canyon 還有小溪可以泡腳｡ 每天吃的飽飽, 出門接受太陽烘烤, 經過前一陣子美西冷颼颼的天氣¸ 曬太陽實在很棒｡

 

ㄡ, 早上起床到院子裡抽煙, 走路不穩, 居然跌倒撞到地上的石頭, 嘴唇流血,  幸運的是至少不是跌到仙人掌上….

 

12月5號, 週三

到Pima 峽谷看土桑市景, 姐姐說這幾年有很多老人退休到土桑住, 房子都蓋的很大, 房價也漲了很多, 像他们家這樣還算小的…

 

大概是有錢人來住的多了, 蓋起了滿是昂貴品牌的購物廣場, 聽說第芬尼也在這開分店, 不過這裡的品牌很多我都沒聽過, 廣場裡的日本料理店作創意壽司, 加芒果醬, 很特別, 但烏龍麵就做的太鹹｡

 

今天晚上要出發到Flagstaff, 再往大峽谷, 聽說又有一個暴風雨要來了, 真是太F巧了, 每次要去都暴風雪, 運氣真正好, 不下雨的亞利桑那去就下雨暴風雪…

 

不過所謂的storm暴風雪並不是像颱風這樣的¸就是天氣壞, 下雨和大雪, 不適合出門｡

 

出門之前姐姐給了我一堆愛心糧食, 一大包核仁(自己烤的, 很好吃. 每天都抓幾把來吃), 泡麵, 罐頭, 水果｡ 直抱怨自己行李太重, 不敢多帶｡

 

晚上 7 點的灰狗巴士延遲到 7點50開車, 9:45 鳳凰城轉車再往 Flagstaff｡ 因為耶誕節假期將至,  灰狗巴士已於週一變更行李規定, 由1人可帶2件大行李改成1件, 每件不得超過25 公斤｡

第一次過門而不入, 轉往土桑

 

11月30日,  由賭城搭晚上 8: 15灰狗巴士到大峽谷的入口鎮 - Flagstaff旗竿城｡

位居沙漠的賭城難得的從早上就開始不停的下雨, 一起吃飯但每次隨便取笑我的德國女人說大峽谷也在下雨¸ 叫我晚 1,2天再去¸我其實不信, 也不太想繼續留在這, 還是照計劃出發｡

排在我後面的大肚子的票到 Tucson 土桑只要美金 60塊, 由Flagstaff 到土桑多了8個小時的路結果只要多付5塊美金, 想到有個Suan姐姐在土桑, 考慮20分鐘之後, 多付百分之20, 美金11.25 的取消費, 取消原來的票, 買了一張到土桑的新票｡ 這樣萬一之後我想去找姐姐, 去的車票成本只要美金16.25, 比單買一張 Flagstaff 到土桑的票便宜很多｡

整晚坐巴士都在下雨｡

 

12月1日, 週六

凌晨 3:15 到 Flagstaff 更冷又下雨濕答答, 情況不妙｡ 在 Flagstaff 車站攤開睡袋打地鋪, 在我旁邊席地而睡等換車的先生是一個軍人, 他說大峽谷不就是一個大洞.....   5:00 灰狗車站沒車要關門, 搭了計程車去Amtrak火車站繼續睡｡ 上大峽谷的巴士要在這搭, 火車站小小的, 旁邊就是遊客中心, 火車站有木頭長板凳, 補眠了 2, 3 小時, 睡的挺熟,  站長人很好, 知道我要坐去大峽谷的巴士, 7點半把我叫起來, 他說氣象預測說大峽谷這兩天天氣很差, 明天中午之後天氣會轉晴, 他找了青年旅舍的地址電話, 就在火車站對面的那條街上, 建議我今天可以先到Sedona, 下雨天紅色的岩石也許會更美麗, 明/後天天氣放晴再上大峽谷｡ 我想起土桑的姐姐, 打電話回臺灣問電話也問問是否方便去打擾, 結果正好他们現在都沒工作, 隨時歡迎, 於是又回到灰狗車站, 搭車到土桑｡

 

整天雨仍下個不停｡ 美國空曠, 這裡又是沙漠, 不同高度的雲層, 一大塊垂直高度很厚的雲, 一片片排列整齊的颱風雲, 鬚狀的雲, 下雨天的雲變化多端, 沙漠原本乾燥, 下了2天雨, 鄉間公路旁出現很多無道水流｡

 

車經Phoenix鳳凰城需換車, 等了1小時, 排我前面的先生帶了一個6歲的兒子, 他要到美墨邊界轉墨西哥, 他6年前娶了墨西哥太太, 入境回美國時海關要他迴轉帶太太回墨西哥, 結果他迴轉仍開回美國, 幾年前太太想家回墨西哥, 結果必須要等綠卡下來才能再回到美國, 他常常要帶著兒子到墨西哥看媽媽, 十分辛苦｡  綠卡一等等了幾年幸好最近這1,2 個月就會拿到, 巧的是他是大峽谷飛機場Tusayan一家航空公司修飛機的工程師, 不巧的是單獨買飛機票更貴, 還要特別到 Tusayan 搭小飛機

晚上7:30 到土桑, 天氣已放晴, 姐姐一家四口人來接